My trip is back on, and I'm in good spirits (well, better, not crippled), too. Now it's Bologna instead of Genoa, but, hey, all meats are good meats when they're Italian.
I met
And, oh, it was. So many good options on the menu! The agedashi tofu was crispy on the outside and warm on the inside and had a nice dollop of ginger paste on top of the other mystery stuff and onions it always comes with; the gyoza (last) were welded together and served, upside down, on a metal plate; and the something something cold soba noodles had frothed egg white, onions, AND crispy fried stuff (yam?) on top. It wasn't as good as the zaru soba I had in Kyoto, but ... when you have to refer back to Kyoto to find something better to compare it to, you're looking at some damn good soba. And
So, a big winner, a perfect little homey dive Japanese restaurant like in all of my beloved Naruse and Ozu movies, the food perfect and the atmosphere ... just like home.