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One for the cooks

Okay, I'm looking at this recipe, for "Corn Pudding With Herb-Braised Chanterelles and Spicy Greens," and I'm finding it kind of interesting. Except, well, I don't like mushrooms. So, my chef friends, how might I alter this to have the taste and texture but not use mushrooms?

For the pudding:
3 tablespoons butter at room temperature, more for pan
1/4 pound fresh chanterelles, cleaned and chopped (1 1/2 cups)
1 teaspoon fresh chopped tarragon leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 ears corn
2 large eggs, separated
1/2 cup half-and-half
3 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Pinch cayenne pepper

For the garnish:
2 tablespoons butter
2 small shallots, peeled and minced (1 tablespoon)
3/8 pound fresh chanterelles, cleaned and halved lengthwise
3/8 cup chicken stock
1 teaspoon chopped thyme
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
2 teaspoons chopped chives
1 large bunch arugula greens, washed and dried.

1. For the pudding: heat 1 tablespoon butter in a medium skillet until foamy. Add chanterelles and tarragon, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and sauté until mushrooms are soft, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and set aside.


2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan, and remove from heat. Using a sharp knife, slice kernels from each ear of corn. Transfer 3 cups kernels to blender. Set remaining kernels aside. Scrape any remaining corn and milk from each cob into blender. Add egg yolks, half-and-half, flour, melted butter, nutmeg, cayenne pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Blend until smooth. Transfer mixture to mixing bowl, and stir in reserved chanterelles and corn.

3. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 3-quart baking dish or 8 8-ounce ramekins. Using electric mixer, beat egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Fold egg whites into corn mixture, and blend until just incorporated. Spoon pudding into prepared casserole or ramekins. Place casserole or ramekins in a baking dish large enough to allow 1-inch space on all sides. Add hot water to come halfway up sides. Bake until pudding is golden, set in center and nicely puffed, 30 to 40 minutes for a large pudding, 25 minutes for small.

4. About 10 minutes before puddings are done, prepare braised chanterelle garnish: melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat until foamy. Add shallots, and sauté until fragrant and translucent, 1 minute. Add chanterelles, and sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add stock and herbs, season to taste with salt and pepper, and simmer until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add arugula, and heat until just wilted.

5. Serve pudding with braised chanterelles spooned on top. If using ramekins, run a knife around inside edge to loosen pudding, then invert onto plates.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.


( 24 comments — Leave a comment )
Nov. 15th, 2007 02:59 pm (UTC)
Why would you want to emulate the taste and texture of something you dislike? :)

But seriously... There really isn't an effective substitute for chanterelles (other than another kind of mushroom). Why not just make it without them?
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:04 pm (UTC)
(For the garnish, if you leave out the mushrooms, you probably don't need a whole 3/8 c of chicken stock, but otherwise I don't see that the recipe needs much alteration if you take them out.)

nitoda's suggestion of bacon or ham would be nice with the spicy greens. :) (I'd probably include some cheese as well, but I'm like that.)
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:11 pm (UTC)
Since I'll be making a creamed corn gratin thing with cheese, I'll want to go easy on the cheese in the other things. :-)
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:15 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
Chopped bacon or julienned ham would be nice with the pudding... but I'd probably choose just one corn dish, myself. (And the gratin sounds like the winner here -- the other recipe is mostly a platform on which to display wonderful chanterelles.)
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:21 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
You're right, it's just too similar. Damn!
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:27 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
I saw your reply to nicoda that you're after a vegetarian side. Could you stand to handle the chanterelles for other people?

(BTW, just checking: you haven't refused to eat chanterelles because you hate button mushrooms, have you? I mean, you've tried them first? Because they're quite different... I hated mushrooms myself until I tried them. OTOH, not everyone does like them. But I know how firmly we can stick by our food aversions.)
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:28 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
I dislike all mushrooms besides enoki and tree ear. I do not like their texture. I wind up pulling them out if they're in food I've been served - it's like getting chunks of gristle in my food to me.
Nov. 15th, 2007 04:01 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
Well, shoot me if this is real dumb, but could you not use enoki or tree ear?
Nov. 15th, 2007 04:12 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
It's possible that in huge volumes they would just totally gross me out anyway. My guess is that they are very texturally different than the chanterelles and not a good substitute, but I don't know - enoki and tree ear are usually more of a garnish than the main bit when I've had them served to me (usually in soup).

Do you like Japanese food? What do you say we go out for dinner after work sometime soon? (Looks like I'm going to be having a bit more time on my hands ...)
Nov. 16th, 2007 10:01 am (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
Dinner after work in theory sounds great, but one night this week for example I felt so ill I thought I was going to have to call an ambulance :( So you see why I find it hard to commit to anything....

I have to admit that Japanese is very far from my favourite cuisine, but maybe you could change my mind :)
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:29 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
And for Thanksgiving, I won't cook anything that I personally won't eat.
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:31 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
Just checking. That's usually my policy as well, but (aside from spiciness levels) I'm not sure I know people who want food I won't eat...
Nov. 15th, 2007 05:30 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
I really want to like mushrooms, too. Tibadoh orders them on pizzas all the time and I feel like a 3-year-old picking them off. Sometimes I just go ahead and eat them (hoping familiarity will improve how much I like them). But, like webcowgirl, I find the texture is off-putting.
Nov. 15th, 2007 10:33 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
I just encourage people who hate button mushrooms to try other kinds, because there's a pretty wide variety of textures out there... matsutakes are almost like chicken breast (but I wouldn't recommend them to T if chanterelles seem gristly to her), and morels are like nothing else on earth and everyone should try them once.

But I'm not trying to scold anyone into eating stuff they don't like, and I don't want to come off that way!
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:39 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
Boy, this one looks good, too, but might be too cheesy ...

Wait, Pumpkin, White Bean and Kale Ragout - satisfying my annual need for an interesting squash dish ... I think I have a winner!
Nov. 15th, 2007 04:17 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
is there such a thing as too cheesy? i don't think so :-)
Nov. 15th, 2007 04:18 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
I like to vary the flavors when I'm serving the dishes together.
Nov. 15th, 2007 10:36 pm (UTC)
Re: Cookin'
The strata looks pretty labor-intensive for Thanksgiving, by my standards. (Hah! I made two pies last year! This year it's pumpkin bread pudding, oh yeah.)

I still want to do red curry squash for some Thanksgiving, but we're eating with my parents this year and I don't think they could tolerate it. Shawn's parents are traumatized by traditional holiday celebrations, so they're going to the zoo for Thanksgiving, and they usually do sushi for Christmas.
(Deleted comment)
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:06 pm (UTC)
I'm trying to find something I can serve as a vegetarian side dish so the ham would be a bit of a problem.

The julienne of carrots, that sounds quite good!
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:05 pm (UTC)
Very young, sweet carrots?

Nov. 15th, 2007 03:46 pm (UTC)
What about this? (no cheese)
Pumpkin, White Bean and Kale Ragout

Time: 1 1/4 hours

1 3-pound sugar pumpkin or butternut squash

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or canola oil

2 tablespoons maple syrup

2 1/2 teaspoons cider vinegar

1 teaspoon kosher salt, more to taste

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Pinch of cayenne

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 large leeks, cleaned and chopped, white and light green parts only

2 large garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

2 15-ounce cans cannellini beans, drained and rinsed (or use 3 cups cooked white beans)

2 cups vegetable broth

3/4 pound kale, center ribs removed, leaves thinly sliced (about 6 cups)

2 ounces grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese ( 1/2 cup), more to taste, optional

1/3 cup dried cranberries, roughly chopped, plus whole berries for garnish

Coarse sea salt, for garnish.

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Using a vegetable peeler or paring knife, peel pumpkin or squash. Trim stem, then halve pumpkin or squash and scoop out seeds (save for roasting if desired). Cut flesh into 1-inch cubes.

2. Spread cubes out on a large rimmed baking sheet. In small saucepan, combine butter or canola oil, syrup, 1 teaspoon vinegar, kosher salt, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper and cayenne. Cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until butter melts; pour mixture over squash and toss to coat evenly. Roast, tossing occasionally, until pumpkin or squash is very tender and caramelized at edges, about 30 minutes.

3. In a large skillet, warm olive oil over medium heat. Add leeks, garlic, rosemary and a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until leeks are very soft and not at all browned, about 15 minutes. Add beans and broth and simmer for 10 minutes.

4. Stir in kale, and cheese if desired. Simmer until kale is cooked down and very tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in pumpkin or squash and chopped cranberries; season with remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Garnish with additional cranberries and sea salt, and serve.

Yield: 8 to 10 side-dish servings; 6 main-course servings.

Edited at 2007-11-15 03:46 pm (UTC)
Nov. 15th, 2007 04:38 pm (UTC)
Re: What about this? (no cheese)
Beans are not my friends :(
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:38 pm (UTC)
Go for something completely different would be my choice. The mushrooms are the star so find another not very wet veg instaed or go for fake meat (I'd certainly go for quorn if i had the chance) or a combination of the two like, hmmm, firm courgette/squash and quorn chunks should go with those herbs and gourds are seasonal too.
Nov. 15th, 2007 03:39 pm (UTC)
Soy sauce.
( 24 comments — Leave a comment )


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